Anyone know where to get one? I've used the painless kit before myself on a few vehicles, the only problem that I don't like is that 4th gear and lockup usually happen at the same time, and kind of lug the engine. Early 700's locked in 3rd also. It stays lit until I step down on the throttle, hit the brakes or let the car coast down to about 25 mph where the trans downshifts itself. You see the two terminals that you need to hook to. I'm told that I should try just hooking +12V to Pin A and tape off Pin D. How does your indicator light behave? Every vacuum switch I've found has 2 lines and more than one wire going to it. You wire 12 volts to the solenoid and run the ground wire from the solenoid to the correct pressure port on the valve body.
Wiring a Lockup-Converter Pressure Switch Wiring A Lockup-Converter Pressure Switch Written by: Mike Ervin Peek under a hot rod today and it's not uncommon to find an automatic overdrive resting between the frame rails. I haven't had a problem with mine. I checked the vacuum on the stock switch and it kicked in at 3. . At the switch I have a delay valve at the hose end where it connects to the switch. The parts you need for inside the tranny are all there. I think I will add a kill switch in line with the +12 Volts, just in case.
The one way you can tell if everything is hooked up correctly, is go out to a open road where you can safely get the car to above 40-45 mph at steady cruising speed and while your foot is still on the gas, lightly depress your brake pedal and you should be able to hear a difference when the engine rpm's pick up slightly, take you foot off the break and the lock up again should engage,and engine rpm's drop, if your vehicle speed is above the preset. People use these trucks to haul and tow. The relay is there to protect the pressure switch. When you install the switch, be careful to not over-tighten it. Also the converter will unlock when you push the brake pedal, or when the transmission downshifts from 4th to 3rd.
I really see no need for the optional lock up switch. Just as the factory designed the trucks. The only problem I had was trying to find the correct electrical connector to plug into the vacuum switch. Thanks for collecting the info. So my question is when at high vac. There is no difference in the way it locks.
Usually they consist of the solenoid with two short pigtails for splicing into an existing valvebody harness. That's it, 15 years and 80k miles since installed on junk yard transmission in the old Vicky. With a simple installation procedure and detailed instructions, only general mechanical knowledge is needed to install this kit and to allow you to experience better fuel economy and more control over torque converter clutch lock-up. Just so you will know, most of the time the brake cancel switch is also a cancel switch for the cruise control, if you have cruise. Great input Zeke and Jim.
With an overdrive transmission and 500 hp, fuel economy exceeding 20 mpg can be a reality. I have done two lockups, and left the temp sensor out in both. Running it behind a 406 in a 64 Chevelle. Something doesn't sound right there. They look different so it is confusing to some.
They always wired mine up internally when they build them. It only had one pressure switch. The pressure switch with 1 pole is self-grounding. Another thing you could do while driving your vehicle, is to just leave it in 3rd gear until you get out on the highway, then shift into 4th, since it won't go into lockup in 3rd anyway. The Roadster went over to a great all-purpose repair shop, Rollings Automotive.
Should be the 4th gear clutch. Theirs still alot I don't know. Shifting from gear to gear is not only hard on your transmission, but it also uses up a lot of fuel. The callout numbers reference the numbered photos at the end of this story. I might add one to mine if I run across a donor. The switch opens at 7 lbs of vacuum or lower.
I have a top notch local shop, Phoenix Transmissions. Actually I was thinking just that Zeke. I too have 373s in a 10 bolt rear. They are to the best of my knowledge. The most reliable kit I found on line was from Painless Wiring and was basically a 12 Volt series circuit with vacuum and brake fail safe switches and a 2 wire solenoid to lock up the torque converter after the circuit gets ground through the 4th gear pressure switch.
On a ling gentle hill, were you want very gentle acceleration that requires torque converter action but no downshift, you may feel it it will chatter slightly. It is the fourth gear valve that you need to power by the use of a vacuum switch. You will need to install a female spade connector on the end of the black wire and run that wire to the new pressure switch photo B. I just happened to have a new one wire solenoid and was changing the fluid and decided to put it in. A single wire solenoid can be used just as easily.